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FAQ

FAQ

Answer: A lot of times the causes of water damages are not controllable. Australia is prone to many natural disasters each year, such as thunderstorms or cyclones and are mostly the cause for water damage. They can cause flooding from pipe bursts, appliance malfunctions, roof leaks, foundation leaks, or septic tank overflows. Flash flooding, pipe bursts, and sewage backups are especially dangerous as they can produce several inches of water in less than a day. There is unfortunately not a lot you can do to prevent natural disasters from damaging your property. Further reasons that we identify often as a reason for water damage are: poor drainage, a faulty installation of shower/basins or failure of washing machine/dishwasher. Especially when building new or doing a rebuild, make sure to find specialists to help you with the installations! Also always be aware of turning off your taps properly, forgetting to do so can cause huge damages. .
Answer:Floodwater that comes from outside and from sewage backups contains dangerous contaminants like viruses and bacteria. If the water isn’t drained within 24-48 hours, structural damage and mould growth can ensue. Even water leaks that infiltrate your home slowly, can cause damage to the building and lead to mould growth. Mould left unchecked will spread quickly through the home.
Answer: It is essential to contact a water damage restoration company as soon as possible. Don’t fall into the trap of shifting it on the next days or weeks, as water is causing mould and irremediable damage to your home. It is also important to contact your insurance company to start the claim process. If safe, shut off the utilities in your home to avoid further damages. Don’t enter your home if it has suffered structural damage. Before you approach floodwater make sure to turn off all electricity and avoid contaminants.
Answer: Some insurance provides coverage for damage that is sudden and accidental (such as water heater ruptures or pipe bursts). However, for flood damage, no matter the source of the water, there is NO coverage by standard homeowners policies. Flooding can occur from storms, sewer backup, and overflowing rivers, ponds, lakes, and oceans. Note that water damage that results from lack of maintenance is not covered on a standard homeowners insurance policy.
Answer: Your home insurance will cover your house and contents for water damage caused by an insured event such as a storm. But if the damage is the result of a leak in your roof that the insurer deems to be a maintenance issue (and thus not covered), the water damage to your home and contents will usually not be covered.

Answer: Water damage to the contents of a rental property is also a common insurance claim. In some cases, it may be caused by the tenant or faulty appliances and fittings (e.g. leaks from a washing machine or dishwasher) or by problems relating to the property (such as a burst pipe or a leaking sink).

Many standard building and contents policies exclude water damage due to accidents caused by the tenant, or limit cover to the contents, not the building, so it’s important to have landlord insurance to cover as many contingencies as possible.

As a property owner, it is also advisable to check the extent to which you are covered for storm, flood and general water damage to your property, and to understand any exclusions of cover.

Answer: An air blower is a machine used for generating flow of air at substantial pressure. The air flow generated is used for different purposes such as small car cleaning blowers, vacuum cleaners, air conditions etc. Depending on the application requirement air flow and pressure may vary.

Air Blowers can be categorised in following types on the basis of principle of air flow generation:

  • Centrifugal Blower - Air enters axially and leaves the blade radial direction.
  • Axial Fans- Air enters axially and also leaves the fan blades in axial direction.

Air blowers have huge requirement in industries and used for applications such as boilers, air ventilation, paint shops, hotel kitchen exhaust etc.

Answer: Dehumidifiers work to lower the relative humidity in a space by removing moisture from the air. Depending on the size of the space, the particular humidity risk factors, the amount of water needing to be removed, or chemicals present, you may need either a residential or commercial dehumidifier. Suitable and a general requirement for all water damage jobs no matter the environment.
Answer: Carpet and Floor Dryers (Down Draft Air Dryers) are designed to speed-dry carpet and hard floors after cleaning, down draft air movers pull warm, dry air from above and direct it in a 360-degree pattern across the floor. Suitable for hard wood floors and direct drying of small areas.
Answer: A low pressure blower is used if the focus is on high air flows and very low pressure. Suitable for direct drying on small areas.
Answer: An air scrubber is a portable filtration system that removes particles, gasses, and/or chemicals from the air within a given area. These machines draw air in from the surrounding environment and pass it through a series of filters to remove contaminants. Suitable for using in environments that have dangerous and hazardous airborne chemicals.

Answer: A Typhoon system consists of a blower with one or several air knives and tubes. Each system will be tailored specifically for a customers application. It is more powerful than a regular air blower and can efficiently dry an area faster, however, it is more expensive, so be sure to do some research before purchasing.

Our water damage equipment range 'here'. Our water damage rental services 'here'.

Answer: If you are dealing with a small amount of water, you can easily mop it up, and wipe it dry. But when you have major flooding or leaks, it’s going to be a bit more than your mop can handle (no matter how good it is!). When it comes to water damage, there is a lot of water you won’t be able to see or have access too. You’ll start to get some of the damage above without even knowing it! It’s important to have a professional take care of your water damage for you. Then you can rest easy knowing the integrity of your home is safe, and your family members will not be susceptible to any health threats.
Answer:
  • Periodically check for leaks under your sinks or where a hose connects to a water supply
  • If your refrigerator has an ice-maker, make sure the connection hose is securely attached to the water supply
  • Remove and replace deteriorated caulk and grout in bathrooms
  • In the laundry area, check washer hoses regularly for cracks or leaks around hose ends
  • Check your water heater for rusted areas or wet spots on the floor
  • An average water heater will last about 15 years; sump pumps have a 10-year life span
  • Outside your home, keep roof free of debris, ice dams, and so forth
  • Keep gutters clean to avoid drainage problems
  • Once a year, have the A/C system serviced by a qualified contractor
  • Before winter, disconnect hoses and turn off each spigot’s water supply
  • Replace damaged caulk around doors and windows
Answer: Once the professionals from the restoration company get to the site of the water cleanup, they carry out an assessment. The best professionals provide upfront pricing on the water cleanup, drying, and restoration services to be provided. They also provide mitigation services which are important in ensuring that incidences of water in business do not occur often.
Answer: Homeowners insurance may help cover damage caused by something such as leaking plumbing if the leak is sudden and accidental, or if a washing machine supply hose suddenly breaks or a pipe bursts. However, homeowners insurance does not cover damage resulting from poor maintenance.
Answer: The outer or primary filter element is designed to remove contaminants from the air coming into the intake system. This is the workhorse of the air intake filtration system.
Answer: HEPA is an acronym for high efficiency particulate air. Basically, HEPA is a type of filter that can trap a large amount of very small particles that other vacuum cleaners would simply recirculate back into the air of your home.

HOW TO CLEAN MOULD F.A.Q'S

Answer: Moulds are simple microscopic organisms whose purpose In the ecosystem is to break down dead materials. Moulds can be found on plants, dry leaves and on almost every organic material. While some moulds are useful (such as those used for antibiotics and cheese), others are known to be highly toxic when ingested or inhaled.
Answer: To the naked eye, mould growth appears as a discoloured surface, it can be any colour but the most prominent colours are blue, black and green. Moulds reproduce using spores, which are like lightweight particles that are released and float on air currents until the find a suitable place to grow. Mould is likely to grow where there is water or dampness such as in bathrooms and basements.

Answer: When mouldy material becomes damaged or disturbed, spores can be released into the air. Exposure can occur if people inhale the spores, directly handle mouldy materials or accidentally ingest it. Most types of mould are not hazardous to healthy individuals.

However, too much exposure to mould may cause or worsen conditions such as asthma, hay fever or other allergies. The most common symptoms of overexposure are dizziness, cough, congestion, runny nose, eye irritation and aggravation of asthma. Illness, memory loss and death; all of these health risks are being linked to exposure to toxic mould. Men, women, children and infants can all be susceptible to this fungal danger. Studies for links to short and long term memory loss are currently being studied. The health cost both personally and financially from mould exposure can be extremely high.

Answer: Mould will cause damage to the structure if left untreated because it will continue to grow and spread, eating building materials like wood and drywall. The presence of mould during a home inspection can cause your property value to lower or the sale to even stop with offers being withdrawn until remediation has been completed.
Answer: Most mould remediation companies should be able to carry out an initial mould report for you where they access the entire property and perform tests to prove that it's present. Afterwards the company can then proceed to remediating the affected areas and treat them accordingly.
Answer:

Step 1: Learn about moisture

Assessing mould development includes more than just looking at whats visible, sometimes this is just the tip of the iceberg. Mould can be an imperceptible unwanted guest. To begin with, understand that behind all mould development is a water or dampness issue. Second, turn into an moisture king — know where moisture originates from and how it gets into the home.

Step 2: Document the mould problem and create a remediation plan

Assessing mould development includes more than just looking at whats visible, sometimes this is just the tip of the iceberg. Mould can be an imperceptible unwanted guest. To begin with, understand that behind all mould development is a water or dampness issue. Second, turn into an moisture king — know where moisture originates from and how it gets into the home.

Step 3: Calculate the extent of the contamination

Mould may not always grow in just one area, so you have to understand how much contamination you are really dealing with. Ascertaining the extent of the damage will help you understand how to deal with and effectively remove the mould. The objective of mould remediation is to prevent mould developing in the home, and to retain structural integrity.

Step 4: Remediate mould contamination

Remediation will include tidying up existing mould while maintaining a barrier between yourself and the source while also tending to the area causing the mould be that a leak or damp area. The next thing to do is work out your contamination size and decide whether you're working in a region up to 10 square metres (around the span of a full sheet of drywall). Assuming this is the case, you'll be following the rules for remediation levels 1 and 2. Level 1 remediation is utilised for smaller regions of mould up to 3-5 square metres and Level 2 remediation covers area from 5 - 10 square metres.

The clean up process is the same for Level 1 and Level 2 mould remediation and comprises these steps:

  • Repair the water problem. This will help prevent new mould spores from growing.
  • Isolate the contaminated area. Close all doors and windows between the contaminated area and other rooms of the home for both levels. For Level 2 remediation, also cover all doorways and any other openings with 6 mil polyethylene sheeting. Seal all seams of the sheeting with duct tape and slip openings in the sheeting to enter the contaminated area.
  • Suppress dust. Do this by misting the contaminated areas.
  • Remove materials. Remove all wet and mould-damaged porous materials.
  • Place materials in plastic bags. Discard all wet and mouldy materials in plastic bags that are at least 6 mil thick, double-bag the materials, and tie the bags closed. The bags can be disposed of as regular trash once the outside of the bags are wiped with a damp cloth and detergent solution prior to leaving the contamination area.
  • Clean. All non-porous materials and wood surfaces that are mouldy must be cleaned. Use a wire brush on all mouldy surfaces and then wipe the area with disposable wipes. To dispose of as regular trash, discard wipes in 6 mil polyethylene bags, double-bag and tie closed. Finally, scrub all mouldy surfaces using a damp cloth and detergent solution until all mould has been removed and rinsed cleaned surfaces with clean water.
  • Clean the affected area and egress. The process for Level 1 differs from Level 2 at this point. For Level 1, clean with a damp cloth and/or mop with detergent solution. Level 2 requires you to vacuum all surfaces with a HEPA vacuum, and then clean all surfaces with a damp cloth and/or mop and detergent solution. Discard wipes as described above.
  • Visibility test. All areas should be visibly free of contamination and debris — no dust and dirt means no mould.
  • Dry. Cleaned materials should be dried to allow leftover moisture to evaporate. To speed up the drying process, use fans, dehumidifiers or raise the indoor air temperature.
  • Replace. All materials that were moved should be replaced or repaired.

Step 5: Determine if clean up has been successful

Just because the mould is gone and there appears to be no residue doesn't guarantee that you're finished. The last thing to do is to decide whether your tidy up endeavours have been effective.

Whether or not you require extra testing to be carried out on the mould areas is very dependant upon what kind of mould you have been dealing with, some times it is necessary to have professionals come in and test the areas to ensure they are mould free.

When it comes to mould the key is to ensure that the area has been cleaned affectively and cannot become contaminated again, talk to experts about how to make sure your home stays mould free, and be sure to check hidden areas often for potential regrowth.